Everest 2007 Expedition Blog

And finally, before I pick up my rucksack to go in search of more oxygen further down the valley, thank you for all the messages of support that have been sent to us over the last few weeks - it’s a real boost to know that people all over the world are wishing us luck.

If you would like to send us a message simply email info@everest2007.net and it will be forwarded on to us, hopefully in time for our summit attempt. Also if you have a question for the team please email the same address and we will try to respond to the best questions via this blog!

Don’t forget that our Everest attempt is in aid of our chosen charity, the Prince’s Trust and we are looking for your support. To donate directly to the Prince’s Trust please visit http://www.justgiving.com/everest2007expedition

After a relatively peaceful night in the rarefied atmosphere of camp 3 the team had to make it’s way back down the Lhotse Face and back through the awe inspiring Western Cwm, which towers over all sides, and back to camp 2 for a night’s rest before descending to the relative comfort of base camp.

Descending the Lhotse Face involved arm wrapping (wrapping the fixed line round your arm behind you for friction and then leaning forward so that you were more perpendicular to the slope so that as many crampon points as possible were in contact with the slope) down the face. This can be fun, but it got rather hairy as you looked down the hundreds of metres into the Western Cwn and realised that one foot wrong could send you tumbling a long way down even though you were attached to the fixed lines. This was particularly sobering at one point which was approaching maybe 80 degrees and which had felt much less steep on the way up – definitely not the time to be going weak at the knees.

Once off the face it was an hour back to camp 2 and a brilliant Sherpa Stew followed by lemon cheese cake! I have no idea how they made it at 6,400m but the lemon flavoured drink crystals left the mess tent for a short while before dinner!

The 28th saw a sunny morning with good views and some great picture opportunities as we made our way down to base camp for some well deserved rest.

We will all now head down the valley in order to build our strength ready for our summit bid, so our next update will be when we return to base camp ready to attempt the summit.

The Lhotse Face is a sheer wall of rock and ice which is almost 1,500 metres in height, leading to both the summit of Lhotse itself and of course to the summit of Everest. It requires a good level of acclimatisation, hopefully a clear head, good crampon skills, a not too heavy pack and a good breakfast. Fortunately our long and progressive climb from Lukla at the start of the month meant that we were all feeling in reasonably good shape to attempt the climb to Camp 3 (7,050m).

The walk to the foot of the Lhotse Face was cold but beautiful, undulating fields of snow on your right and pinnacles of degrading ice on your left. I am always cautious to pace myself at the start of the day, ensuring that I’ve taken on enough fluid and have some high energy snacks tucked somewhere nearby when I’m peckish and did just that on route to the foot of the face, knowing there wouldn’t be a chance to eat once we were on it.

The face was a mixture of rock, and blue ice dusted in snow. The fixed lines of rope that we clipped into were clearly visible and after clipping into the rope at the bottom, I made sure that I was never unclipped at any point, using both my carabineers where necessary.

Kenton (our guide) led, followed by Greg, Omar, myself and Ben, all setting our own pace up the face. Despite the raging sun in the Western Cwm I had anticipated it being cold and wore thermals, soft shell trousers, a fleece and waterproof, leather gloves to grip the ropes and my favourite Buff under my helmet. With no wind I was too hot, but when the wind tore down the face I was glad of my layers as there is no opportunity to delve into your rucksack and find the appropriate item for fear of dropping your bag down the face.

We all made camp 3 feeling relatively well, and the headaches only started to kick in when we woke in the morning. I managed to eat some pre-cooked rice, some Belgian hot chocolate and some Ainsley Harriot Chicken & Leek packet soup. Your appetite really suffers at this altitude!

Red is such a cheery colour, and I make a habit of wearing it as much is a can.

At 21,000 feet, is my Welsh Rugby shirt the highest in the world??? The flag, signed by this year’s WRU Six Nations Squad, will be coming all the way to the summit. Watch this space.

Nestled along side some ice cliffs part way along the Western Cwm, camp 2 is located at around 6,400m (21,000 ft) – which means that it is a site of extremes. At night it is extremely cold, with temperatures dropping down to -15 to -20 degrees C. Conversely, when the sun comes out the shape of the cwm acts as a giant reflector for solar radiation and you can strip down to nothing but long underwear and still be roasting.

Our setup at camp 2 is like a mini version of base camp, complete with a mess tent and kitchen. We were even promised the luxury of a gas heater for the mess tent, but it never really worked! The outside temperature gets cold enough that the bottled gas remains liquid and there’s not enough vapour pressure to run the heater. So instead most people ended up wearing our high altitude down suits for dinner and it looked like a get together for red Michelin men!

After almost a week in camp 2 exposed to the cold, dry air most of the team had picked up various degrees of the ‘Khumbu Cough’, which is nothing more than an irritation of the lungs/airways and should clear up within a few days of going down to base camp or lower altitudes.

After two previous trips through the treacherous Khumbu Ice Fall, the team navigated it much quicker and safer the third time. Although some of the dangers of this section of the mountain cannot be avoided, the team is now far better aware as to where they should go quicker to minimise the objective dangers. The second night at Camp 1 was much more pleasant than the first as the team felt much more acclimatized to this frightful altitude.

The trip to Camp 2 began the next morning at 6:30am. It was not dark at that time but the sun had not began shinning and most were complaining of cold hands at the outset. We all know that it is sometimes far better to be cold in the Western Cwm than hot where temperatures have been known to rise to 50C. After crossing the many crevasses right after camp 1 and crossing multiple ladders perched over those bottomless pits, the team got into the Cwm proper. This section of the mountain is un-roped and is a gentle but very long rise into Camp 2. It is a very deceiving section at that as even when you begin to see Camp 2 in the distance, it is always one or two rises and descents too far. It is really a soul crushing undertaking.

That day the wind was blowing hard, turning whatever uncovered sections of our face stone cold. We did manage to take in the breathtaking view of the Cwm amidst all this, with Everest revealing itself fully for us for the first time. Wind was still blowing hard at the top signalling that it may be too early to summit. It is amazing to think how high the mountain looks from a staggering 6400m! Slowly we adjusted our view to whatever we could see of the Lhotse face (the way to camp 3) and realising just how steep it looks. We soon realised that it is preferable to eye the elusive Camp 2 instead and break down the task into smaller steps. somehow the time passed and we were finally at our new destination and home for almost a week.

Text - received 27.04.07
We’re all back at Camp 2 having spent night at Camp 3 at over 7000m. Temp minus 20. Base Camp tomorrow.

The photos on the www.royden.com websites are now working properly.

Text - received 25.04.07
Greg, Kenton and Tori walk to bottom of Lhotse face and return to Camp 2. Team plan to sleep at Camp 3 tomorrow. All well.

With the team away from Base Camp for a few days they have sent two texts via their satellite phone to let everyone know how they are. Please see below:

TEXT - received 23.04.07: Team all at Camp 2 at 6400m. We have intense sunshine plus snow showers. Western Cwm is beautiful and have had magnificent views of summit.

TEXT - received 24.04.07 (From Tori): Today boys went half way to Camp 3 while I rested at Camp 2. I will do same tomorrow. Making good progress in extreme hot and cold.